Energy used by heating system

[tls1]

Hi all,

In my 2016 it has approx 48,000km. This winter season up here in Canada it has been -10C (14F) lately. In the summer we were getting range of about 150km on a full charge using AC (it was about 200km in summer when it was new). Now in the winter it dropped to about 125Km on the display but in actuality its can be as little as 100km or less. Its quite unnerving.

I have noticed that maybe the heat pump heating system has a problem? We don't really know at what temperate the HP turns off and the resistive heater turns on. Further sometimes the heat button light turns on, sometimes the AC light turns on... does anyone know what actually happens and how much energy they each use? and when to use them? I have seen the energy as high as 3-4kwh on the display with the temperature set to 20C and fan on low (1,2, or 3) setting.

Further when using the front (defrost) button, the energy use jumped to 6kwh and the hot air was really hot, seems the resistive heater only runs at 100% or nothing? Ouch! Even with the temperature set to 20C on low (1,2, or 3). This was today. Car parked in garage overnight. Then sat outside for 45 mins, outside temp -7C, no windchill, windows fogged up on the inside.

Lately the car is so unpredictable that we feel the need to charge almost every day even though the round trip for work is 20km all city (no hwy). Heaven forbid we get stuck in one of those horrible traffic jams.

Soulspy says battery SOH 100.6% doubtful! battery cells map top row shows 3 pinks with 4.0 and 5 blues 3.0, all of the grey squares below show 3.68. Any other valuable info from Soulspy I should look at?

Happy New Year to all!
Terry

 

[IanL]

For the 2016 and 2017 model, I understand SoulSpy computes an SOH value from "best and worst cells" or something on those lines. I don't think the method is the same as the one KIA uses to give the official value they use to determine whether the battery is replaced under warranty.

 

[JejuSoul]

Firstly you are in Canada, so have an 8 year warranty. For a 2016 it is now too late to get a warranty battery replacement. You can ignore any values for SOH given by the app. If you want to keep this car for as long as possible you are going to have to be gentle in driving and charging this car. It may be best to use HVAC as little as possible when driving. Warm the car while it is being charged so the cable is providing power for the HVAC not the car.

There are details on how much power HVAC draws while charging here. :- Pre heating the Cabin



Scheduled heating of the cabin at 0°C.

Conclusion = Need a 3,1 kW EVSE setting if you don't want loose the battery charged over night at 100% when you pre-heat the cabin.

3,1 kW = 1,1kW EVSE + 2kW Average consumption on RED line.

 

[tls1]

Hi JeJuSoul,

The car stays in the garage in the winter overnight. On work days it is driven about 10km to the office where it sits outside for the day with no option to plug in. Then it is driven back 10km to the garage. All stop/go city red lights/stop signs. We have Eco mode always enabled. Anecdotally it seems the front button sucks the most juice, followed by auto. We try to use the heat (and sometimes AC) buttons only with cabin temp set to 21-23. In my previous scenarios it was -10C outside.

1) At what exterior/interior temperature does the heat pump stop working and the resistive heater take over?
2) Aside from using the heated steering wheel and seats which we do, does the foot/defrost (or foot/face or foot only) combination setting use the least juice?
3) Is there a way for me to check the HP is working? Or only the dealer?
4) Could it be the battery heater that is causing the high (20-30-40kwh per 100km) readings? Note there are no codes on soulspy.

Lastly I did go see a new EV, they offered me $5K for a trade in. They noted a small rust spot where the car was dinged and never repaired. Do you think its worth while fixing to get a better trade in?

Regards and thanks!
Terry

 

[chilibt]

Hi,

Further sometimes the heat button light turns on, sometimes the AC light turns on... does anyone know what actually happens and how much energy they each use?

(2018 in Ottawa). This perplexed me as well, I believe there is a humidity sensor that uses the AC feature to dehumidify the cabin air. I also get the defog "auto" when this happens, even though I want it to direct to the feet, it stays in "AC and auto" for about 20 minutes without being changeable to take it off of defog, after 20 minutes or so then it returns to normal driver control.

 

[tls1]

Hi all,

Are there any hidden menus that are accessible by combinations of button presses that would provide some additional info?

Cheers!
Terry

 

[JejuSoul]

There is a diagnostic system for reading HVAC trouble codes from the console unit. details here

Using the Climate Buttons. Press the MODE switch more then 4 times within 2 seconds while pressing the OFF switch.

 

[Markinson]

Hi,

(2018 in Ottawa). This perplexed me as well, I believe there is a humidity sensor that uses the AC feature to dehumidify the cabin air. I also get the defog "auto" when this happens, even though I want it to direct to the feet, it stays in "AC and auto" for about 20 minutes without being changeable to take it off of defog, after 20 minutes or so then it returns to normal driver control.

Yes, I've experienced the similar effect, but I think it is not time based, but according to the humidity sensor data.
As long as humidity is above a ceretain level, the auto-defog function starts & cannot be changed (during this period it auto opens the air inlet, so you cannot close the outside air even is you want to prevent smoke to come in for example), unless you set the air flow to FRONT WINDOW.
I use preferably the "front window" button, but instantly I override the maximum air flow speed to 1-2 stick level as needed & turn of A/C, only heating ON.
In this mode you are always able to close the air inlet & use the inside air circulation (which is really needed when you are following some old **** diesels).

One think I realy hate, is that every 10 minutes, the system overrides my choice & opens the outside air inlet from my inside air circulation mode.
Should you know how to disable this auto open function, I'd buy you a drink or two.


And: Yes, there is an Engineering Mode, which is available from the central touchscreen, BUT!
To enter into eng.mode you are not only needed to know the tricky touch combination, but also you need to know a certain password, which is not always the same, but related to your chassis No#.

So, even if I let you know the method to enter this eng.mode, you won't be able to enter it without the proper password.
Besides: engineering mode contains really mainly setting written in Korean (I used Google Lens ith direct translations), but still 99% content is almost useless without a service manual.


In case you want to give it a try & maybe brick your onboard computer...

Making an USB-(debug)report of your system by entering engineering mode:
1. In case there is any issues, press & keep pressed the RADIO button for 10s. "Log dump started" appears on the display.
2. Insert a pendrive into the USB-port & enter into Settings\System Info.
3. Touch 5x on area No#1 then touch 1x area No#2.
4. Choose: Engineering mode\USB copy.
5. Choose: Copy Logs to USB
(kindly check the attached jpg; you maybe have an updated SW, which is a bit different from the original version, which is shown in the jpg first screenshot.)

Now, you can send the Logs to your local dealership to help you our with the issues you have in the "infotainment system".

Somewhere in the login process the password will be requested to enter.
These are the possible options I can share with you:
2702
2014
2504

This method is "Hyundai mode restricted", so handle with care & as confidential.

If I were you, having a Soul still under warranty, I would definately NOT try the above.

Otherwise... Good Luck & don't tell them you know it from me!

 

[JejuSoul]

The navigation computer has both dealer mode and engineering mode. With the right codes you can enter these and have a look, but there really isn't much to see. The temptation however is that from this mode you can gain root access and hack the system. I strongly advise against doing this.

There are some previous comments about the risk of hacking the navigation computer here.
Setting up Torque to show BMS data : warning about engineering mode hacks.

-
Hacking the navigation computer risks bricking the system. I do not recommend anyone try this.
-

The navigation computer is an android tablet. Hacking it allows you to install your own software.
The HVAC system is run by the FATC ECU. It takes data from the navigation computer but control is with the FATC.

 

[Markinson]

The navigation computer has both dealer mode and engineering mode. With the right codes you can enter these and have a look, but there really isn't much to see. The temptation however is that from this mode you can gain root access and hack the system. I strongly advise against doing this.

There are some previous comments about the risk of hacking the navigation computer here.
Setting up Torque to show BMS data : warning about engineering mode hacks.

-
Hacking the navigation computer risks bricking the system. I do not recommend anyone try this.
-

The navigation computer is an android tablet. Hacking it allows you to install your own software.
The HVAC system is run by the FATC ECU. It takes data from the navigation computer but control is with the FATC.

I have checked the possibilities in the Engineering mode and can confirm that there's almost nothing to see. I was surprised about the Korean language mixed with English and it looked for me that most of the features are to execute a read out processes, and nothing like fine tuning and adjusting values.

I had a feeling when a small grandchild sneaks to have a look at Grandma's drawers to search for old secrets and hidden stuff. I felt this is none of my business and closed it quickly.

 

[Markinson]

The navigation computer has both dealer mode and engineering mode. With the right codes you can enter these and have a look, but there really isn't much to see. The temptation however is that from this mode you can gain root access and hack the system. I strongly advise against doing this.

There are some previous comments about the risk of hacking the navigation computer here.
Setting up Torque to show BMS data : warning about engineering mode hacks.

-
Hacking the navigation computer risks bricking the system. I do not recommend anyone try this.
-

The navigation computer is an android tablet. Hacking it allows you to install your own software.
The HVAC system is run by the FATC ECU. It takes data from the navigation computer but control is with the FATC.

I have checked the possibilities in the Engineering mode and can confirm that there's almost nothing to see. I was surprised about the Korean language mixed with English and it looked for me that most of the features are to execute a read out processes, and nothing like fine tuning and adjusting values.

I had a feeling when a small grandchild sneaks to have a look at Grandma's drawers to search for old secrets and hidden stuff. I felt this is none of my business and closed it quickly.

My Navigation lost the "Nearest charging station" function after a successful official SW update downloaded and performed according to Kia Official Website. When I contacted Kia Hungary, they asked me to export the Logs and share it with them, so they can look for a solution to my issue.

This is why I received the description of entering engineering mode.

Does any of you faced similar issue with the nearest charging station function?