Rolling in park? Anyone else?
- Thread starter StaceyBahr
- Start date
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Here in Korea we got this as a standard upgrade when you took the car in for a service check.
Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) firmware update
Presumably there is some cost involved in re-certifying the car when a change to the brakes is made. Kia has avoided this cost for as long possible, but has now been forced to do it.
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I am surprised they didn't do this everywhere 3 years ago.
Here in Korea we got this as a standard upgrade when you took the car in for a service check.
Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) firmware update
Presumably there is some cost involved in re-certifying the car when a change to the brakes is made. Kia has avoided this cost for as long possible, but has now been forced to do it.
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IanL
Well-known member
This has happened to me a couple of times, but my 2018 has the auto parking brake fix, so it hasn't caused a problem, EXCEPT......
my aux battery died a couple of days ago, and I can't find out why. It hasn't reached end-of -life, and was fine two days before, so I'm wondering how it came to run down, The only thing I can think of is that, when you press the button to switch off, if you are not in P, it does not switch off, but adopts the acc setting. I definitely had the lever to P, but if it did not engage properly, could it have left the electrical system in acc, which would account for the run down? I'm suspicious, and will make a point of checking in future that the button lamp indicator is out.
my aux battery died a couple of days ago, and I can't find out why. It hasn't reached end-of -life, and was fine two days before, so I'm wondering how it came to run down, The only thing I can think of is that, when you press the button to switch off, if you are not in P, it does not switch off, but adopts the acc setting. I definitely had the lever to P, but if it did not engage properly, could it have left the electrical system in acc, which would account for the run down? I'm suspicious, and will make a point of checking in future that the button lamp indicator is out.
How do you know that your 12V was fine before? Did you do a load test?
A car with an internal combustion engine will begin to have problems starting when the 12V battery gets weak. However an EV only needs enough power in the 12V to unlock the door, read the key and enable the main relay. At that point the main traction battery is connected to the DC-DC converter and that will provide all the 12V power for the car.
This happened to me in the past. I drove it one day, charged overnight on the timed charging, went to drive it the next day and it unlocked the door but that was it, the 12V was totally dead. I'm thinking of getting a battery load tester to check the 12V every 6 months or so.
A car with an internal combustion engine will begin to have problems starting when the 12V battery gets weak. However an EV only needs enough power in the 12V to unlock the door, read the key and enable the main relay. At that point the main traction battery is connected to the DC-DC converter and that will provide all the 12V power for the car.
This happened to me in the past. I drove it one day, charged overnight on the timed charging, went to drive it the next day and it unlocked the door but that was it, the 12V was totally dead. I'm thinking of getting a battery load tester to check the 12V every 6 months or so.
IanL
Well-known member
notfred said:
Good question. I recharged the battery and then put the battery tester on it. The SOH was 68%, and the tester reported "Good Battery". Maybe I can't trust the tester. I've ordered a new Yuasa battery. Worth £65 for peace-of-mind. Until it arrives, I'm testing daily with the battery tester, and keeping an eye on the current draw when parked with a clamp meter.
