NEED HELP!!

[ken]

Ran the car play update and then went out to the care and it is literally going nuts....says something about checking the brakes and lights are flickering....wont recognize any type of input. i cant even move the car.

 

[JejuSoul]

Some ideas.

1. Call Kia Service.

If they don't suggest anything better then while waiting for the tow truck to arrive.

2. Turn the car off. Take the SD Card out. a/ Try starting the car with no SD Card. b/ Try your original SD Card c/ Try the new SD Card, making sure it is fully inserted.

Let us know what happens.

 

[mtndrew1]

Was the car on and running while doing the CarPlay update (ready to drive, green car icon illuminated on the dash) or was it just in accessory mode?

It sounds like the car was in accessory mode and you ran down the 12V battery while updating, ending up with a dead car.

The CarPlay update only affects the head unit, not any other systems on the car. You have something else going on.

There is another poster here who started the update and went to bed. The car ran down the 12V battery because the car wasn't running and it was dead as a door nail the next morning.

 

[SoulEV2016]

i cant even move the car.

Your 12v ACID battery is dead.
Classic.

 

[ken]

i thought it was fully on, it was actually plugged in as well. anyhow had it towed as my though is that the CarPlay only affects the head unit too so i am not sure what else was happening. i was getting a message stating to check the brakes and the lights were headlights were flickering. it is at the dealer now.

 

[notfred]

CarPlay only affects the head unit but if it has drained the 12V then the 12V being low voltage will cause all those other symptoms. You could probably have just jump started it or charged the 12V and been fine, I'm fairly sure that is all the dealer will do.

Having it plugged in may have stopped the DCDC converter from charging the 12V, I know it stops the car from moving. We don't have a clear picture of which circumstances the DCDC converter will run. There was a firmware update to improve it and try and stop the 12V from discharging, but we don't know what changed.

I would follow the instructions exactly, I suspect they are to have the car in run mode but in park as I think in run mode the DCDC converter is guaranteed to keep the 12V alive. I wouldn't have it plugged in, that's going to drop it out of true run mode and anyway the traction battery drain if sitting parked is almost nothing.

 

[ken]

if it is just the battery i will be happy:_)

 

[SoulEV2016]

i thought it was fully on, it was actually plugged in as well.

When you are plugged and the high-voltage battery is FULL, only the 12v ACID battery is used.
The RED battery indicator on dashboard is for that.

Sorry, a few people have seen this.

 

[SoulEV2016]

and the lights were headlights were flickering.

Car don't start the brake assistance if the 12v ACID battery is to low.
it's for that, the flashing LED (too low voltage of the 12v battery for the PWR dimmer device on this LED).

Starting the car pump on the 12v ACID battery because of the hydraulic pump on the brake assistance.

 

[SoulEV2016]

There was a firmware update to improve it and try and stop the 12V from discharging, but we don't know what changed.

On mine Soul EV 2016, only 100Wh is used every 3 days to restore the 12v ACID battery.
And the change is descripted in the IONIQ manual (jejusoul notice).

It can stop if the 12v ACID battery is very low (or drained by something like a heated carpet on the 12v ACID battery).

 

[tractioninc]

i thought it was fully on, it was actually plugged in as well.

Note that plugging your car in only charges the high voltage battery pack that powers the drivetrain. The small 12V battery that powers the instrument cluster, infotainment and other internal systems gets charged off the high voltage pack while driving the car. Leaving the car powered on for any prolonged length of time, while not driving, will drain the 12V battery and result in all kinds of strange errors and behaviors.

 

[mtndrew1]

The instructions for the update are pretty adamant that one should start the car, leave the vehicle running, stay in the car, and monitor the update as it progresses.

You're the second CarPlay installation situation here wherein someone has not followed the instructions and ended up with a dead 12V battery.

If the ignition is "on" but not "running" then the 12V battery is the only source of power and will deplete very quickly rendering the car useless whether or not the car is plugged in or whether or not there is a charge on the high voltage battery.

It also appears from the previous poster who started the car, left it running, and went to bed only to come out to a dead vehicle in the morning that there is some sort of safety mechanism which shuts down the ignition (leaving 12V active) after a prolonged period of inactivity perhaps as some sort of security measure. This may be intended to prevent the liability of a fully running car left unattended inadvertently. My Volt and Prius had this feature as well.

In any event, for anyone who hasn't done the update yet, it's now VERY clear that you must:

1. Start the car as you would when preparing to go for a drive (foot on brake, press power, green car icon shows up in the instrument cluster)
2. STAY WITH THE CAR while the update progresses.
3. Shut off the car fully only when the update is complete.

This is not a process that works well unattended.

 

[Elmil]

If the ignition is "on" but not "running" then the 12V battery is the only source of power and will deplete very quickly rendering the car useless whether or not the car is plugged in or whether or not there is a charge on the high voltage battery.

Are you sure about this? I know my car is always charging the 12V battery as long as the HV battery is charged. I.e. the blue LED:s are indicating charging. The same is true when a scheduled heating is in progress, even if the HV battery is not charging. This is because those actions need fully operating ECU:s, and thus the Low voltage DC converter needs to be turned on, which also is the 12V charging function. But, no blue indicator, no charge.

 

[mtndrew1]

If the ignition is "on" but not "running" then the 12V battery is the only source of power and will deplete very quickly rendering the car useless whether or not the car is plugged in or whether or not there is a charge on the high voltage battery.

Are you sure about this? I know my car is always charging the 12V battery as long as the HV battery is charged. I.e. the blue LED:s are indicating charging. The same is true when a scheduled heating is in progress, even if the HV battery is not charging. This is because those actions need fully operating ECU:s, and thus the Low voltage DC converter needs to be turned on, which also is the 12V charging function. But, no blue indicator, no charge.

Yes. If the HV battery is charged but the car is not in the RUN mode, it won't make a bit of difference. The car will only draw from the 12V battery because the DC-DC converter is off and nothing is recharging the 12V.

Likewise, if the charger is plugged in but on a timer it won't matter at all if the car is not in the RUN mode. Just having the ignition on ACC or ON will draw only from the 12V battery and run it down rendering the car dead until the 12V is externally charged.

There is only one way to guarantee that the CarPlay update goes as planned and that's to follow the included instructions to the letter. Start the car as though you were going to drive it with the parking brake set (green car icon illuminated). Initiate the update. STAY WITH THE CAR. Shut off the car when everything is complete.